Epic Terrain: Kibri 6818 Gothic Cathedral (Basilica Imperialis)

I previously posted about Grimdarking the Kibri Goppingen Church, an N-gauge Model Railroad kit which has a mythical reputation among Epic gamers. If you saw my last post, you may have seen photos of the finished model in the middle of the battlefield.

Here are some photos of the cathedral itself. It was relatively simple to paint: I sprayed it black, then sprayed it with Army Painter Uniform Grey. The roof was washed with Gryphonne Sepia and Devlan Mud, then the whole thing was drybrushed with Coat d’Arms Mid Grey. Then I picked out details such as the shutters, doors and various spikey bits.

These photos were taken with a crap camera, I will update the post with decent pics later on. For now, I’m off to London for Salute!

6,000 NetEpic Game: Necrons vs Squats at No Man’s Land

If you follow me on Twitter then you may have seen me live tweet a game of NetEpic played at my local gaming store, No Man’s Land. It was 6,000 points of Necrons and Squats played over a city table: I was very pleased to be able to use a load of new terrain pieces including some GameCraft fortress walls and the finally finished Kibri cathedral.

Read more “6,000 NetEpic Game: Necrons vs Squats at No Man’s Land”

Work-in-Progress: Epic Imperial City

I’ve made some progress on my modular Imperial city. I still need to add more colour and detail, but here’s what I’ve got so far:

Imperial City

With the building modules removed, you can see the road layout:

Imperial City

There are pieces of plasticard in the slots to elevate the building modules. This gives the effect of a slightly elevated pavement. The buildings represent three generations of Epic: the original foam buildings from the Adeptus Titanicus boxed set, the ruined buildings sprues from Epic 40,000 and the later Forgeworld Epic buildings:

Imperial City

Imperial City

You can also see a building from Gateshead Gaming, and the previously mentioned Kibri church, which is the centerpiece:

Imperial Cathedral

I’ve also created some ruined buildings, which could be used to replace buildings destroyed during the game:

Ruined Building

The roads are arranged so that another board can be slotted in on either of two sides (assuming S6 starts selling the road system again, or I’m able to find suitable replacements). The other two sides will have a reinforced defensive wall from GameCraft Miniatures.

Grimdarking the Kibri Goppingen Church

The Kibri 6818 Goppingen Church, an N-gauge Model Railroad kit, is something of a mythical object among Epic gamers. It’s now out of production, so it’s rather hard to get hold of, but it makes for a perfect showcase terrain piece.

Kibri 6818 Goppingen Church

But if you want to use it to play Epic, it’s a little plain. It needs grimdarking, with the judicial application of spikey bits:

Spikey BitsSpikey BitsSpikey BitsSpikey Bits

Having just bought a bunch of Cityfight boxes to build some 40K terrain, I’ve quite quite a few leftover pieces, which I’ve used to add some character to the building.

I’ve finally started to make some progress on my modular city system. I’ve glued down the roads and junctions in an arrangement that will let me expand to another board if/when Scott starts S6 Engineering back up again (or I find someone who can make some custom pieces for me). I’m planning on using the Fortress Walls system from GameCraft Miniatures to add a defensible city wall along two edges. More details to follow.

Modular City Board, Pt 3

A while back I posted about the old Adeptus Titanicus era foam buildings I’d acquired. I’m planning on using them in the city board project.

These old building were nice in that they fitted together with a nice tongue and groove on the back. But to go the extra mile, I’ve been using putty to fill the gaps between two glued-together buildings.


The filler I’m using is Revell’s “plasto”. Unlike green stuff, which has the consistency of chewing gum, this stuff is more like car body filler, or cement, and it’s applied in the same way: squeeze a dollop out of the tube onto the relevant area, then use a spreader to shape it, and then file smooth once it’s dried.


The finished surface of the affected areas will be visibly different from the rest of the building, so I will probably end up applying a thin coat of the filler to the roof and sides of the buildings, just to keep it consistent.